Immersion heaters are best used with portable and other small baptistries. Our 120v version  plugs into a standard 110v outlet and should only be used with portable baptistries as it is slow to heat.

Our 240v immersion heater plugs into a 220/230/240v outlet (like a clothes dryer outlet). We recommend the 240v model for walk-in baptistries under 800 gallon capacity and where a built in heater is not practicle or possible.

ALL IMMERSION HEATERS MUST BE PLUGGED INTO A GFI PROTECTED OUTLET OR CIRCUIT or Purchased with Ground Fault Protection (GFCI)

QUESTIONS WE GET ABOUT IMMERSION HEATERS

Q. Is it possible practical to place two immersion heaters in the 300 gallon baptistry simultaneously?

A. It’s not ideal, but we do see churches get two (2) of the 120v immersion heaters, if they do not have 240v service. 240v service is faster and more efficient and will also get the water hotter than 2 of the 120v heaters ever will, but if you do not have 240v service, then you really don’t have a lot of other choices. While two 120v immersion heaters may not ever get your water to a "warm" temperature, it may be just enough to take the edge off. If you can have a 240v outlet installed, it will probably be cheaper than buying two heaters and will certainly get the water hotter than two 120v heaters.

Q
We are looking for a heater for our baptistery. We have a single tank unit which is approximately 120 gallons. We are needing to heat the baptistery just prior to a ceremony. Are the immersion heaters recommended for this type of application.  We do not keep the baptistery filled. 

An immersion heater should be fine for 120 gallons. The 120v baptistry will probably not get the water hot, but will warm it up and take the edge off.
The 240v heater has more heating capacity (3x) but you have to have a 240v service outlet nearby. Keep in mind the 120v will heat 100 gallons by 30 degrees in 8-9 hours.

Troubleshooting a Baptistry Immersion Heater. If your Immersion Heater is not working, please go through this checklist. If the heater is still not working please email us your answers to these questions along with a picture of your heater showing the MFG badge with date/model #
 

1. Did the heater ever work, even briefly?
2. Is the temperature dial turned to the highest setting? 
3. Is the GFCI tripping or able to be re-set?
4. When you push the GFCI reset does it click or do anything?
5. Is the power light coming on at all, even briefly? 
6. Did the power light ever come on, even briefly? 
7. What size (amp)  and type (single, split)  breaker is in the church’s electrical panel? 
8. Are there any other loads on the circuit while the heater is being used? 
9. Is there a GFCI on either the breaker or the outlet? 
10. If yes to 10 is the other GFCI tripped?
11. Have you confirmed correct wiring and voltage at the outlet? 
12. What voltage is running to the heater? 
13. Have you checked for a loose ground or reversed wire at the outlet?

*How long does it take before the GFCI trips?
*Does it only trip once the thermostat is turned above a certain spot? Or does it just trip once the unit is turned on?
*Is the GFCI hot or warm to the touch? Warm is normal…hot not necessarily.
*Do we know for sure that you do not have a ground fault on the wiring circuit?
*Was the circuit tested by an electrician specifically for a ground fault or voltage leakage?
*If not, do you have a GFCI tester or other device with a GFCI that you can plug in to the outlet to see if there is an actual fault with the circuit?
*Is there any other electrical device on this circuit or does this circuit branch off of any other circuits?
*Is the breaker in the panel “good”? Sometimes old breakers can go bad which can cause a GFCI to trip or there can be current leakage somewhere else which is causing the GFCI to trip.
*Have you verified what voltage is getting to the unit as this could change the amperage draw as well (lower the voltage, the higher the amp draw).